Dirk Bikkembergs Fashion Show - Menswear Spring/Summer Collection 2018 with interview

Designer: Lee WoodCollection: The second collection for the British designer, and former right-hand of Donatella Versace.A masculine wardrobe focusing on the construction of clothing and graphic allure, with dual-fabric jackets, dramatically up-turned trousers, snap-fasteners, and inserts which add a decorative element. A decidedly masculine wardrobe with references to sport, as well as the historic DNA of the brand.A soft palette of beige, ivory, white and pearl grey is contrasted with green, black, and blue.Focus on: The natural materials such as cotton and linen which provide a contrast to the more technical fabrics.To note: Trainers with cork soles, and high laced boots with large buckles.Lee Wood: This season I was working on shapes and volumes and pushing, even more, this kind of honesty, and not wanting to do things too beautifully, as a kind of a psychological moment. So, I was looking at the brutalist architectural movement and this way of creating rhythms and modules and being very open and honest about how things are constructed. I think the ways that clothes are cut, tailoring even in casual clothing, are extremely important construction moments and that’s another reason why I wanted the inspiration, to highlight that; the pocket details, the line of a shoulder, the waistband of a trouser. So for me, the construction is the first thing. Dirk Bikkembergs created a brand that talks about football and types of sports. For the first line, we used sport but in a very delicate way. We take inspiration from it and relate it more to tailoring, and to a kind of atmosphere, rather than being specific. Music of the show (only to be used in the context of the show, protected by the right to information)

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