What is rykielism?a report on sonia rykielmichael and eric dayan, the new owners of sonia rykiel relanch the brand and reaffirm its dnainterview with michael dayan – director general of sonia rykiela house, a soul?sonia rykiel is more than a brand, it’s values, a way of life that we call rykielism, which ultimately is a philosophical current that defends the house’s values. it’s an authentic brand. a brand that triggers memories, emotions. for us, sonia rykiel is the avant-gardist of all these generations. she is even the mother of millennials because she was already reflecting. and it’s up to us to be in this continuity so that these young people know the brand and the designer, who deserves to be known by this young generation because she defended these values with great force. it was more of a positive, light feminism, and we didn’t necessarily want to embody this collection by an artistic direction, but rather a studio so that ultimately, the star of this first collection, is sonia rykiel.this is the famous sonia rykiel, where we reworked the sketches we found in our archives and imagined reinventing on mesh, to give it a very visual side. moreover, we called this product the sonia product because it came from her sketches.destined to rebuy this house?in three days, we had to decide to prepare an offer, in three days, over a weekend, we had the information thursday evening, and we had to submit our offer monday morning at 11 o’clock. so in those three days over a weekend, all planets were aligned, so that eric and i were available, everything was done quickly. i think that there must have been a part of fate to align everything, so that we could finally submit our offer and be those that were reserved through more than twenty offers that had been presented to buy the brand.the magic of archivesthat’s a great design. it is one of the very first designs that we found, done by sonia rykiel, signed 1965. she writes ‘future mother’ on it, so she was pregnant with nathalie rykiel, and she had drawn this sketch while writing ‘future mother’. voilà, that illustrates the woman that sonia rykiel was through this design. and the chocolate mousse, the recipe, by sonia rykiel, is just funny, playful, it’s an image of what the brand can do, speaking about fashion and other things too.houses and institutions are composed of archives, which we wish to exhibit. so, we have this section, that’s a bit museum-like, which brings the work alive, and allows people to discover the work, to work with schools so that students can immerse themselves in these archives, to animate them. in any case, the archives section is completely fascinating. it is an incredible richness that we continue to discover, that we introduce to our teams and that inspires us a lot in any case.what are the exclusivities and novelties to come?we wanted to rework our stripes, rework some patterns, we found mouths, the rykiel kiss, which is also a well-known pattern of the house. it is one of the first models we should present for spring summer, exclusively on our website. we have a second capsule that will be linked to our sports section, yoga, products in which women can do their sporting activity in comfort while staying elegant.a woman at the head of creative direction?most likely a woman, but according to who we meet, our decision could change. in any case, we want someone who can defend the values of the brand and its products. but we preferred to take our time because it is a very important decision. we didn’t just want to make an announcement to say that sonia rykiel recruited such and such director or creative director. we didn’t want to enter this transfer window of creative directors, we have a short list, we meet people with a lot of talent, but it’s a very important decision, on which we want to continue to mull over and reflect on.what are the future ambitions of the label?we find that the universe of the brand could completely be found in a hotel. we could imagine this in terms of decoration, velvet, stripes, to put in the entrance hall archives, books. so voilà, it’s true that it pleases us. secondly, because there, we have stages, things to think about, but it is true that the brand’s lifestyle aspiration makes us want to, in any case, work as well on this type of subject, quite crazy, but we would find it great to exploit.a manifesto to be expressed?coco chanel liberated women by removing their corsets, yves saint laurent empowered them by putting them in shoulder pads and trousers, and sonia rykiel gave them movement by giving them mesh, this lightness in material. and voilà, she became part of this family of designers, of women doing things for fashion, ultimately also to evolve consciousness, we find that just great.
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